Black natural hair is typically kinky, curly and coily, and, therefore, more dry – both in appearance and to the touch. In our multi-pronged efforts to increase sheen, black women often fall prey to counter-productive habits: product overload or the application of harmful silicone’s.

The use of natural hair masks has become increasingly popular and can be extremely beneficial in moisturizing and strengthening hair. But first, take the time to carefully assess your hair type – is it in need of repair, maintenance or no additional treatments? Also know that results will vary from person to person.

What is a hair mask?

A hair mask is simply a product that is applied to the hair, and left on usually for 20 minutes (but sometimes for as long as 12 hours) and then rinsed off. Hair masks allow intensive strengthening or moisturizing conditioning and many hair care companies now offer masks as an integral part of their range. Many women have has great success creating their own formulations at home, using everyday ingredients, thus avoiding the expense, chemicals and fragrance, which may be factors in over-the-counter versions.

How do you use hair masks on natural, kinky, curly or coily hair?

It depends on what hair issue you may be experiencing.

For general dryness and to improve sheen, you’ll most likely need a moisturizing mask.

Try this Aloe Vera recipe:

¼ cup aloe vera gel
juice from half a lemon
3 – 5 drops of argan oil

Mix the ingredients together and apply to hair and scalp after shampooing. Leave on for 15 – 20 minutes, then rinse.

Or:

Avocado, Banana, Olive Oil and Mayonnaise
¼ avocado
½ banana
2-3 tablespoons olive oil
2- 3 tablespoons mayonnaise

Mix to a smooth paste, leave on for 1 hour then rinse with lukewarm water. This mask is said to also act as a natural sunscreen. Let’s face it, if you have locs this might not be the best hair mask for you.

Dandruff sufferers have reported positive results with this Lemon Juice and Coconut Oil mask:

Mix lemon juice and coconut in a ratio of 1:2
Massage the mix into your scalp
Leave in for 5 hours or overnight
Rinse hair with cool water.

You could also try a simple Greek Yogurt & Honey Mask:

Mix yogurt (enough to generously coat your hair) with two tablespoons of honey. Leave on for 20 minutes then rinse off with a small amount of sulfate-free shampoo.  A few drops of peppermint and T-tree in the shampoo wouldn’t hurt.

Breakage and/or split ends  – If you are experiencing breakage and/or split ends, you may require a protein-based hair mask. Protein strengthens. Be aware that protein treatments – even the natural home-made kind – can lead to excessive dryness and breakage if over-used. My advice is to consult a good natural hair stylist before experimenting with any kind of protein hair treatment.

Eggs are a tried and true hair strengthener because they are packed with protein, iron, sulfur, phosphorus, zinc and selenium. You can use an egg mask once a month, or once every two weeks to help with breakage. Try this formula:

Whisk an egg, and mix in four tablespoons of grapeseed oil and few drops of lavender oil.
Apply to hair and scalp and leave on for 30 minutes. Rinse out and shampoo with a sulfate-free shampoo.

Alternatively:

Whisk an egg and add one cup of milk, two tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil and the juice from half a lemon. Apply on scalp and hair and leave on for 20 – 30 minutes. Rinse then shampoo.

Herbal Rinse

If you are contemplating the use of a hair mask for natural hair growth, remember that there is nothing that you can apply to the hair or scalp that will make hair grow faster. Topically applied products can help to moisturize existing hair (which may help with hair retention), strengthen existing strands, or stimulate hair follicles by improving blood flow – but your rate of growth is pre-determined by genetics . (Hair typically grows at ½ inch per month.)

Herbs like rosemary, nettle, horsetail and sage are excellent for stimulating the hair follicles. Rosemary, in particular, is also reported to add luster to hair.

How to use herbs in a stimulating hair mask:

Prepare a herbal infusion by steeping herbs in hot water for approximately 15 minutes. Use this infusion as a final rinse after shampooing and conditioning your hair. If you prefer, you may mix the infusion or essential oil(s) in your shampoo.

Bear in mind that hair loss or non-growth may be indicators of anything from seborrheic dermatitis to a thyroid disorder or severe infection; furthermore, certain medications like birth control pills may also cause thinning hair. Check with your doctor first if you are in any doubt as to the nature of the problem.

And in closing, a word to the locs sisters: be careful how you make use of hair masks. If your locs are not yet mature (locked in), frequent use of masks may cause unraveling. In addition, some of the creamier, stickier hair masks (those containing mayonnaise or honey, for example), may prove to be difficult to wash out effectively, leading to problems with lint collecting in the hair, or strand clumping. Stick to once a month hot oil treatments.

Hot Oil Treatment
1 – 2 tablespoons of coconut or jojoba oil:

Massage into hair and scalp for 5 minutes
Wrap in hot, moist towels or sit under a hooded dryer for 15 – 20 minutes
Rinse thoroughly in lukewarm water

I know we’ve covered a lot, try the recipes and see what works for you.  That’s it for this week.  As always …

Dedicated To Your Beauty

Juliette Samuel

Esthetician/Author/Publisher

Nyraju Skin Care